From the docks:
Immediately across from Patriot Landing is a rocky cliff; right down to the water’s edge. This outcrop is one of the rare examples where a geologist can say with assurance, “I know how and where this rock was made.” This rock is Pillow Basalt. Basalt being the black volcanic rock typified in the Hawaiian Islands. The “Pillow” modifier describes the bulbous shapes of the rock-“pillows” In order to make Pillow Basalt; the molten lava must be extruded underwater. Anytime a TV show explains either volcanoes or Hawaii, they almost always show an underwater scene of sizzling red-hot lava; squirting out like giant toothpaste. This will harden into Pillow Basalt. Underwater extrusion of lava is not the same as pouring lava into the sea. Pouring lava causes it to shatter into sand-sized pieces; the source of the “black-sand” beaches of Hawaii. If one walks out along the base of the cliff (low-tide only), the toothpaste-like structures is obvious. Look closely and you will find a couple of 1”+ bore holes; drilled into this rock, obviously man-made. Here’s the story: Black rocks contain black minerals which contain iron. When the liquid lave hardens (crystallizes) the iron minerals line up with the earth’s magnetic field. That magnetic movement is locked in these rocks forever (as long as they are not re-heated). If one cuts a core from the rock and marks its orientation, one can take the core back to a lab. Now, we must have an apparatus which can shield the core-sample from all outside magnetic fields. The very tiny field, locked in the minerals, can be read. It yields the latitude (north of the equator) but not the longitude (east-west direction). This pillow basalt was formed very close to the equator. It has drifted into its present location through plate-tectonics.

Paleo Indians:
Records of Paleo-Indians are scattered all over the southern half of the USA (the northern half was covered by ice). They date from over 13,000 years BP (Before Present). A brand new date of 14,300 BP has come out of a cave in Oregon. These are the so-called Clovis People (from a site at Clovis, New Mexico). Interestingly, the most sites are located along Chesapeake Bay.

However, the oldest known human remains were found on Santa Rosa Island, just offshore from Santa Barbra. The record in San Luis Obispo County is fragmentary; which is no wonder. Where one would expect to find an Indian Camp would be where a freshwater stream met the Pacific Ocean. These  areas, today, are under 360 feet of seawater.

The so-called “60 fathom place” is well known to fishermen: It is a stair-step at 360 feet of water depth.  It marks a “fossil” sea cliff, cut by surf during the last ice-age.

By 11,000 years BP, the world had turned inside out. These Indians vanished; the ice receded, and mega-fauna died out.

Lions and tigers and Bears; Oh My! Elephants, camels, horses, giant ground sloths; all gone. The only large animal to make it through the extinction was the American bison (which we sometimes call a buffalo).

There was continuous occupation on San Miguel Island since 11,000 BP by a new set of Paleo-Indians. Absolute dates of 8000-9000 years BP are scattered all around the San Luis Obispo County and California, in general.

We assume that these people evolved into the Chumash and other tribes.

Spanish Exploration:
Long before the founding of Jamestown (1607), the Spanish were exploring the Pacific Coast of what is now Mexico and USA. Cabrillo (1542) ad=and others were actively mapping this West Coast of North America.

In 1769 a settlement was established at San Diego and the building of missions began. In all 19 missions, 4 presidios, three pueblos were in place in California before the Louisiana Purchase.  Mission San Luis Obispo dates from 1772.

From 1810-21 Mexico fought is War of Independence from Spain; which started and era of political and social upheaval which lasted into the 20th century.

Avila Beach:
Any Californian could petition the Mexican Governor of California for a land grant. Miguel Avila did so and was declared owner of 2 square leagues (about 14 square miles) around Avila Bay, but there was no formal grant. In 1846 the new Governor, Pio Pico made if official. Miguel had married Pio Pico’s Niece! Certain restrictions were added; public access to a road and to the strip around the bay.

This is a pretty choice spot; a fresh water creek, flat river-terraces (the golf course) for farming and room for ranching, near by oak forest for lumber and firewood and the only natural harbor in the area.

Remember, Morro Bay was not a useful port until the 1940’s when the causeway was built to the Morro Rock to the mainland. Until that time, Morro Rock was an island, and surf came right down what is now the Embarcadero.

The Gold Rush occurred in 1849; California was admitted to the Union in 1850. The economy was booming. Yet there was no railroad to the Central Coast and no decent road. People traveling with gold-dust caused a boom in banditry.

The only safe way to move any supplies was by boat. Avila needed a wharf. So in 1855 2 gentlemen build one at cove landing (notice the sign on the road into Avila Beach). This is also known as Pirates Cove and is San Luis Obispo’s nude beach. The problem with this landing was ships had to off lead onto small boats.  Then the cargo had to be hoisted by crane up the steep hill.

The main road (along the river) and the wharf did not match. This problem will be seen over and over. But this landing operated for 10 years.

In 1867 Miguel’s son laid out and sold lots in Avila Beach. In 1869 John Hanford put together the finances for an 1800 foot pier near the present Avila Beach Pier.

Whalers Island
Whalers Island is now incorporated into the break water. .In the 1800’s it was an active whaling station. During the whaling migration (November-April) a lookout was stationed above the lighthouse. Boats would row out and attempted to harpoon the whale, which was towed back to the island where the blubber was stripped.

On shore were 1500 gallon pots in which blubber was boiled down to oil.

Ten whales would pay for a season. Whale oil lubricated the Industrial Revolution. Whaling preceded petroleum, and vegetable oil will not hold up to the stress of heat and shear; whale oil was the answer.

Smith Island
For ten years, starting in 1884, the Smith family lived on this island. They were followed by two families of Gregory’s; one with 14 children.

The bridge connected the island to the land where boats were stored.

There were decks cantilevered over the cut terraces.

The Oil Clean-Up
From 1913 to 1993, oil was pumped from the tank farm on the hill to the Union Pier for loading onto coastal oilers. A small oil spill in 1992 led to the discovery of a leak in the pipeline under the town, which is built on a sand bar.

After ten years of trying various remedies, Union Oil brought out the entire main street of Avila Beach; tore it down and dug up the contaminated sand. It was burnt in an incinerator located where the tank farm once was.

Union Oil supplied millions of dollars to rebuild the town. We have a brand new waterfront, but Avila Beach will never be the same.